Modernizing the hanbok

63 February 2, 2008August 13, 2009

by javabeans

I don’t really care about fashion much, and I don’t blog about it, but I saw various mentions on the interwebs of Canadian actress Sandra Oh‘s above tribute to the hanbok, or traditional Korean dress, which she wore to the SAG awards earlier this week. The look was deemed worthy fodder for fugging on Go Fug Yourself (here it is again on Chosun daily).

The Fug Girls did backpedal from their scorn when they realized her dress was a take on a national costume; they were probably afraid of seeming culturally insensitive or ignorant or whatever. I don’t think the dress is ugly, but it’s not really all that interesting either — neither as a gown in and of itself, nor as an innovative new take on the hanbok. It’s just so LITERAL. There are ways to modernize the hanbok more cleverly. Making the bow really really big isn’t the only way to make something seem fashion-forward. And there are Korean designers doing it better. See what I mean after the jump.

SONG OF THE DAY

Sorea – “사랑바라기” (wishing for love), from the soundtrack for drama series Goong S.
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So there are lots of variations on the hanbok, and I apologize in advance for my limited knowledge. (Here, you can Wikipedia it for more info.) My experience with them is limited to childhoods wriggling in discomfort on New Years Day, bowing before elders, and outgrowing them so fast that there was no point in investing in another hanbok until, for example, my wedding, or never. Whichever comes first. Of course, as with children’s clothing in general, outgrowing them quickly usually meant buying cheap versions, the kind with the scratchy material that left me looking wistfully at all the pretty adult hanboks made from soft, cool silks, in prettier patterns than the regulation pink-and-green ones that little girls wear with the rainbow stripes on the sleeves. To the Korean girls out there, you know what I mean, right?

Below left is Gu Hye Sun wearing the most basic design; below right is her in the queen’s regalia, I believe from her recent role in the drama King and I:

There’s a variety of different headwear that can accompany a hanbok, and the design of the dress itself can be embellished with embroidered panels, or given a variation on the front panel for a more formal look like the one Seo Ji Hye wears, below left. Below right is Kim Hee Sun in formal bridal dress.

Now, as for modernizing the hanbok, take a look at the following, designed by “hanbok artist” Kim Hee Soo. How’s this for a slim, modern silhouette? The models’ old-fashioned braids provide a traditional accent to contrast with the contemporary sleekness. The flower detail on the right is gorgeous:

Darker, with fuller skirts, and handpainted designs inspired by ancient motifs:

These remind me of the full white slipdress customarily worn under the colorful outer of layer the hanbok, which add volume to the skirt.

And this is a pretty style that takes elements from the dress of the gisaeng, or courtesan. Love the veil draped on the hat, and the simple, clean bodice.

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Happy Chuseok!

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51 lear

February 7, 2008 at 7:31 PM

The first time I saw Sandra's dress was when it was being 'fugged.' I was surprised because they were mostly upset by the bow, and I thought, but it's hanbok-inspired; how could it not have a bow? It was before they retracted upon knowing the origin of the design. Looking at it from a Western gown perspective, I don't like the bow juxtaposed with the diminutive bodice, but fashion is fashion. Also, it was obviously made for her, so I just wish the hem was up an inch or two. I would hate to get such a dress dirty. I love the fabrics! Sumptuous and bold.

On the other hanboks, I think I might go hunting for the picture of the dress in the back of the one with the tiger print. That's just a gorgeous turmeric color!

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52 twee

February 7, 2008 at 7:50 PM

wow those modernised hanbok's are pretty i think the coutesan u showed is hot! i love that one the most...and the black one in the second picture...
as for the first two....from first glance i wouldnt have thought that they were inspired by the hanbok...the one with the flowers in particular reminded me of of a few modernized vietnamese traditional dresses

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53 june

March 2, 2008 at 3:59 AM

I'm with 'figbash with' this one. This is as modern and different as Hanbok appropriations can get in my opinion. The colour combination along with the minimalistic appriopriation works quite efficiently in giving the dress a balance of elegance and pretty delicacy. I love the pink one sided bow and how the other half just falls down to 'lift' the lower bottom grey half of the dress. In all, I'm actually quite baffled at the response to the dress as it works well for me. Very aesthetically balanced while being mindful to the important features of the hanbok and still establishing that link.

The other hanboks you suggested in my opinion does not give enough of a modern and varied 'feel' to the hanbok. If you're going to take another approach to the hanbok, i feel you might as well be as bold and radical about it as you possibly can whilst retaining it's most important elements. These dresses simply go as far as incorporating the 'fuller skirts' to instil that 'connection' with the traditional hanbok.

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54 michelle

March 5, 2008 at 7:57 PM

check out the images of original Korean dress, Hanbok!

http://yumiyah.blogspot.com/2008/01/kim-kyung-soo-for-korea-vogue.html

http://alkemie.blogspot.com/2008/01/as-you-know-i-am-rather-fan-of-korean.html

http://fleshasiadaily.com/2007/07/07/song-hye-kyos-vogue-korea-photos/

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55 Lovely_Luna

November 16, 2008 at 11:34 PM

KYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA!!!

I LOVE IT!

Saranghaeyo!!! ^O^

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56 Herlina Putri Utami

December 4, 2008 at 1:54 AM

anyonghaseyoooo! ne ga myongmok Herlina Putri Utami.i'm the lover of korea ...........!

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57 KATrina

December 8, 2008 at 2:27 AM

Oh! Hanboks are lovely! I wish I could wear one someday.....

I envy Korea because they still wear their native dress even only on special occasions....... and now they're already been fusing it with modern fashion.

I wish the Filipinas still wore Maria Clara dresses even only on special days......... I really hope the Philippine media could showcase Filipino culture like Korea does in their dramas.......

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58 iwed

January 14, 2009 at 10:06 PM

wow....very good and I like it because I like something about korea :)

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59 RAJINDER KAUR

January 17, 2009 at 1:27 AM

THESE ARE TOO MUCH NICE DRESS. WHEN I SEE THESE DRESS AT THE 1ST TIME I FEEL THESE HAVE REALY DIFFRENT LOOK. SO CRATIVE AND WELL MODIFIED . REALY DESIGNER HAVE DONE GOOD WORK.

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60 Jenni

April 15, 2009 at 12:46 PM

These dresses are gorgeous...sigh. Modernizing the hanbok is something absolutely amazing.

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61 Soo-Ji

May 25, 2009 at 11:51 PM

Sandra's dress is very elegant in my opinion. Sometimes simplicity is best. I think the most beautiful hanbok I've seen were on the drama Hwang Jin-Yi~