SUWON AND HWASEONG FORTRESS: PART ONE
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RED SLEEVE CUFF has ended and I decided to drop it at Episode 12, and thus avoided the last 5 episodes, which, from what I hear, is probably for the better.

But I have nothing more to contribute to the drama itself; it is my final and overall impression that this drama did not know what to do with its story, or what it needed to be, to be a good story, specifically the best version of itself, but as we all were, or well I was anyway, very apprehensive going into this in the first place, worried it was going to burn out, well Iโ€™m just left being ironically not very surprised.

Instead of a last Hangout Thread though, I wanted to post something about Suwon. You can treat this as a hangout thread if you like, I donโ€™t really mind, Iโ€™ll still tag you all โ€“ but the contents of this post are not related to the drama, and more to do with the real history behind the drama. Or rather one of the historical settings behind the drama.

In the years 1794 till 1796, King Jeongjo (San) built the Fortress and Palace of Hwaseong in Suwon, to house and honour the remains of his father, Prince Sado.
Jeongjo initially had plans to move the capital from Seoul to Suwon, and the fortress was built to include elements of a wall, defensive fortress, and town centre, in response to the collapse of the Korean front line during the Imjin war, where separate mountain fortresses were used for populace evacuation in times of war, and the towns themselves were less fortified. Significant portions of the Fortress were destroyed or damaged during Japanese Occupation and the Korean War but it has been almost entirely rebuilt/reconstructed. It is now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

In 2019 I went to South Korea for around about three weeks, including travel time. I visited Busan, Sokcho and Seoul, mainly, with day trips to Gyeongju, Seoraksan National Park, and you guessed it, Suwon.
I cannot remember now how I found out about it – (I was probably looking up historic things to visit because I like going to historic landmarks)- but I went to Suwon nearer the end of my trip and time in Seoul, specifically to visit the fortress, and it ended up being in my top three favourite days of the entire trip. It was long (as most of them were), and it couldโ€™ve been longer, but it was a very satisfying and enjoyable day.

Obviously by now the modern city has outgrown the historic walls, so the fortress walls run in a big loop through the city, and you can walk along this entire length. There are multiple other features along the wall, including four main massive gates, several turrets, towers, sentry posts, pavilions, and secret gates, two culverts/ floodgates, and just below the hill the West side of the wall crosses, is Haenggung, meaning detached palace.

Suwon is about an hour south of Seoul by train, and I am not a very energetic traveller- that is, I get tired very easily and have to plan my days accordingly. (This doesnโ€™t help when youโ€™re alone in Seoul for 9 days, a city that literally only wakes up at night, and stuck in a hole in the wall hostelโ€ฆ ripโ€ฆ)
There was also the palace itself I wanted to go to, (taking the total number of palaces I visited on that trip up to, I think it was, 6). This meant that I only had time to walk half the fortress wall length. But I chose the bit with the hill, which meant I go to look out over the city whilst doing so. And also kill my knees by walking up the 50 and 1 millionth set of extant stairs. Please. Korea. Why do you love stairs so much. My knees.

I reached Suwon in time for lunch, and visited the palace first, before walking along a wee artistic district street to the easiest place to access the paths along the Wall, just opposite the South Gate (which is a roundabout now haha). Like most historic places in Korea, and most national parks, you have to pay to enter these- but theyโ€™re very cheap, only a couple of thousand won. Although in Hwaseongโ€™s instance, despite the fact they give you a ticket and little sticker to say you have paid to enter the hill park and walk by the wall, I really donโ€™t know how they manage to police it since the wall is open to the entire City of Suwon.

But never mind policing entryโ€ฆ

See- the other thing about this Fortress Wall isโ€ฆ that itโ€™s so very, very easy to climb on to from the inside and โ€ฆ walk alongโ€ฆ on top of the wallโ€ฆ

By the time I had passed two secret gates (which my writerly imagination had a lot of fun with), and snacked on some grapes at a pavilion, the part of my brain that if it sees something climbable MUST climb The Said Thing, was unable to be ignored and I gave into temptation. Not just to climb onto the wall to take better photos of various points, but also to walk along entire sections of it.

โ€ฆ

Did I get stared at? Oh my gosh yes.
Where there any signs telling me not to? Not a single one.
Would I totally go back at sunset and do it again? Absolutely.
Nobody said anything either. Lol.

When I reached the North Gate however, apparently the biggest gate of its kind in South Korea, I was by this point extremely tired and very hungry.
And it was at that point also, that my phone decided to spontaneously combust! Erโ€ฆ that is, suddenly did not connect to the data from the SIM card plan I had been relying on all trip, got stuck on an outgoing ghost call I didnโ€™t make (and there it remained stuck for โ€ฆ two years, I might add), and the battery dropped like it had just been thrown off a cliff, or it too had been set on fire. (This was, if any of you remember related stories, where my Zombie Phone adventures began. I to this day, have no idea why it suddenly decided to reject the SIM card.)

I wouldโ€™ve liked to have walked farther but that was it for me.
So I bought a letter opener, which is a very normal touristy item to buy, managed to find the right bus to take off the gift shop wifi, and then went and got Galbi. For one. Because apparently thatโ€™s what Suwon is known for. Well, the galbi, not theโ€ฆ for one.
You canโ€™t actually order Korean BBQ for one person in Korea- you basically have to order for two, and then hope youโ€™re hungry enough to eat all of it yourself. You usually are, but it can be very expensive, and also really lonely. Because man is Korean BBQ made forโ€ฆ havingโ€ฆ friends.

I didnโ€™t used to get lonely when travelling alone, and I still prefer it in certain scenarios and circumstances, but meals in Korea are so much of a cultural fellowship thing. After a point I started to specifically get really lonely not having anyone to eat with or go find interesting food with.

Nonetheless I miss Korea like crazy and would definitely go back to Suwon to explore it more, both the modern city and the fortress. Just maybe with a friend next time haha. .
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Below are some of my pictures from the trip, and I will share a second post a bit later as well, because I canโ€™t fit them all in one.

Having good memories of historical places I have been to of the relevant era definitely lessens the burn of RED SLEEVE sucking. That and I stopped caring. ๐Ÿ˜›

THE END.

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    @yongsital, @ladynightshade, @jorobertson, @kiara, @mrsz6, @missh, @marcusnyc20, @lindag, @hanie, @bbstl, @velvetstuff, @magajesj, @kurama, @wapzy, @neener, @susanf, @epyc2010, @emsel, @jillian, @eazal, @ramenqueen, @caro77, @ndlessjoie, @dncingemma, @jossie4cheryl, @sparks121, @snowflower, @cozybooks , @jingbee, @peony, @claire2009, @ally-le, @pinkyp, @esther95 @diniyuukie @unniunni

    As usual, anyone would like to be added, or removed, just let me know.

    Episode 5 + 6 WALL HANGOUT THREAD:
    https://www.dramabeans.com/members/sicarius/activity/1278213/

    Episode 7 + 8 WALL HANGOUT THREAD:
    https://www.dramabeans.com/members/sicarius/activity/1280270/

    Episode 9 + 10 WALL HANGOUT THREAD:
    https://www.dramabeans.com/members/sicarius/activity/1282424/

    Episode 11 + 12 WALL HANGOUT THREAD:
    https://www.dramabeans.com/members/sicarius/activity/1283607/

    EPISODE 13, 14, 15 WALL HANGOUT THREAD:
    https://www.dramabeans.com/members/sicarius/activity/1285357/

    Thus concludes my RED SLEEVE HANGOUTS. Thank you all who joined and participated- I fell off a bit at the end but I hope y’all don’t mind.
    Here’s to the next, and hopefully much better, sageuk.
    x

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    I want to go back to Korea!

    I should have in 2020, but COVID happened and the same for 2021 and 2022…

    I didn’t visit Suwon but it looks pretty ๐Ÿ™‚

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    I remember getting lost trying to find Hwaseong when I visited xD Have to visit again because I wasn’t able to climb the hill side.

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      Oh no!!! Kakao maps were my very best friend tbh hahaha.

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        (IIRC- I took a bus from the main train station to the city centre opposite the palace, first, and that helped orientate me. I have no idea what you did, I’m just trying to think of useful tips for next time! haha)

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        That was a low budget trip back in 2017 and I relied on public internet and physical map xD (I know it’s silly, I learned from that and have since purchased a SIM card for net every time I go). Also, I’m no longer shy to ask around so I’m sure I’ll be able to find the place next time. Another thing, I remember they had some construction going on then, which made it harder to find the entrance.

        I LOVE Kakaomap and KakaoMetro! Now, I’m starting to miss Korea.

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          Physical map! Omo. I kinda love that that’s so old school hehe.
          But yes to the SIM cards, eh. I was in Seoul for just 3 measly days in 2017 as well and only did public internet then and like no research… although my SIM card kaarked it just before the end of my trip in ’19 (so annoying- at least by that point I knew what cafes had wifi), it was definitely the best decision.
          Ah! Maybe they were working on part of it. Oh well! Hope you get there next time~

          I know right!!!!! They’re just so good! haha

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    Thank you for this wonderfully evocative post and the pics. Your writerly voice is captivating and engaging. I daydreamed that I was travelling too as I read your post. How fortunate were you to go in 2019 before the pandemic made travelling for fun a distant dream.

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    I was about to ask for some tips on solo travel until I read your “prolly should go with a friend”. I guess you still had lots of fun.
    Let’s just leave this post to Suwon and Hwaseong. This interests me more than the show I want to stop talking about 😂

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      I mean I can give you some tips anyway if you’d like! hahaha
      What would you like to know? Haha For Korea or just in general?

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      Like I said, usually, I am fine travelling alone, I enjoy it- although perhaps Iโ€™m growing out of it somewhat- but I just felt it so much more on that excursion to Seoul especially, than like ever before. For a lot of reasons I think.
      I stayed there for too long, for one. I was in Seoul for 9 days at the end of my trip, which was about 1 or 2 days too many methinks. I like visiting cities, but Iโ€™m not a big city person, and Seoul is one of the biggest metro areas in the world, so after that long, the city started to drain on me. Probably partly why I enjoyed Suwon so much tbh, because it got me OUT of Seoul lmao.

      I also just specifically found – Seoul in particular, tends to, as I said, wake up at night, and things like the night markets, and Seoul night life, I think would be easier to navigate, and better enjoyed, and also somewhat safer, if you have someone to go with.
      I went to one of the famous markets during the day, and it was packed in its centre, shoulder to shoulder- I tend to hate crowds and this was borderline claustrophobic, so this was awful for me. I didn’t have anyone to guide me, and I wasn’t confident enough in my spoken Korean (which is poor anyway) to push myself through and order for myself- so I left almost immediately after arriving. It’s something like that I think that I would find going with a friend or several, would be more enjoyable. Especially someone who SPOKE Korean.

      And kinda in a similar vein with eating— Eating alone can be fun, but eating in Korea is culturally something you do WITH people, to extend friendship, or a romantic interest, or workplace relationships, or as a sign of thanks and respect, but also as a sign of inclusion, and hey, eat with us, we want to know more about you; thatโ€™s why in kdramas treating people to meals is always such a big thing, and why โ€œhave you eatenโ€ doubles as โ€œhow are youโ€. You canโ€™t help but wanting to share that with someone after a certain point.

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        Another one of the things I think that didnโ€™t help, was that my accommodation in Seoul was really average.
        In Seoul for accommodation you basically have two options if you are not rich- you either get a really good location, near everything you want to see, and with easy access to the main subway lines, for a really good price! but it’s cheap and nasty.
        Or you get nice accommodation for the same price, but it’s an hr away from everything by subway.
        It’s really hard to get both, and prices for good accommodation in the city centre tend to sky rocket.
        I went for location over quality, and this was a bad idea.
        It was cheap, and that was good, but it was a sort of hole in the wall type hostel, where they rented out individual rooms on airbnb, with a shared kitchen and shared bathrooms, and there was no window in my personal hole.
        There was a mini fridge in my room, and free rice, but there were also insects in the kitchen and bathrooms… It was dingy, and not relaxing, and I found it really, really hard.
        As I said, I get tired really easily traveling, so somewhere to go back to, to rest and rejuvenate for the next adventure, was something I needed, but didn’t have.
        I found myself just spending as long as possible away from my room during the day, but this just made me more tired, and triggered my anxiety more, but I had no one as support and nowhere else to go, other thanโ€ฆ well more tea shops in Insadong. There was no way I had energy for night life by the end of this either, nor I did wake up feeling refreshed.

        So one of my primary tips, whether you are alone or with someone else, is pay for Good Accommodation. Just do it.
        My hey days of hostelling are over, and they tend to be a certain kind of accommodation, that is not really my scene. They tend to attract certain kinds of people, younger generations and backpackers, thatโ€™s common, as well as party orientated people, which, though I want fellowship, I am not. Theyโ€™re also not relaxing places to stay, because they usually have stairs (yeah I have thing against stairs), the rooms are more like communal living, bunk beds etc, than a place for true rest. For me, when travelling, I want somewhere after a long day of exploring to come back to and rest. I donโ€™t know why there is this massive culture among travel ideologies of constantly having to do things, with no rest. Itโ€™s both absurd, and actually impossible for some people. You canโ€™t properly enjoy yourself if youโ€™re constantly burnout. 8 years ago I could manage the hostel life better, but not anymore. And tbh, the place I stayed in Seoul was worse than a hostel. So unless you are someone that thrives off that kind of environment, I think it is more worth it to pay that little bit extra to have somewhere nice to stay. I shouldโ€™ve done this in both Busan and Seoul, although Seoul was the worse of the two. Sokcho had one of the best Airbnbs Iโ€™ve ever stayed in though.

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        Another tip I would suggest is do a shittone of restaurant and eating research before going. In and around where youโ€™re staying, or going for the day, as well as specific things you want to try.
        Again this would be easier with someone who knows the foody places, but youโ€™ll save so much time trying to figure out where to eat, especially if you need food asap or last minute. I didnโ€™t do this quite enough.
        I also think making food part of the thing to do would probably be a good idea? I kinda did this too but I think Iโ€™d also do it more next time. Like actively just have entire days where food is the main attraction and event. Haha.
        Supermarkets in Korea are expensive, eating out is cheaper, or going to actual markets- which again benefit from prior research. Convenience Stores are actually Convenient. Seoul is at least two thousand won more expensive than Busan.

        A lot of my tips tend to come from how I personally travel. Thus I donโ€™t know how applicable these will be to you specifically but I guess that is one tip for solo travel then- figure out how YOU travel; how you work, what you need, what you like.

        For Korea specifically:
        – Get Kakao or Naver Maps, or both, it will save your life. The phone apps have English versions, you can bookmark locations easily, they have inbuilt subway and bus timetables that only steered me wrong once, and they cover the entire country.
        – Get a T-money card- this can be used for intercity buses and subways country wide, and even at some shops works like a cash-card.
        – If youโ€™re there for long enough that it will be worthwhile, and going to places where wifi will be scarcer, get a Korean SIM card for the data plan alone. Honestly, Iโ€™d recommend this anyway, because it means you always have a map, a dictionary, and a browser at your fingertips.

        I’m sure I can think of more but that’ll do for now, this is already so much hahah

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          Thanks Sic for such a detailed post. We tend to be similar when it comes to wanting good rest, and not being a big fan of big cities (I think a country’s history is more unique than anything else so that needs exploration during travel) and also food but not as much to give it an entire day haha. Idk if Korea will ever be possible for me. As you said having someone alongside that speaks Korean or the native language of the country makes traveling and especially eating out easier. Maybe someday when beanies plan their Korea trip, some of us can help with their Korean skills 😝. Plus thanks for the insight on the accomodation facilities, transport and eating culture. I could gather some from dramas but didn’t thinks “have you eaten” also refers to” how are you”.

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            Ahahaha! Absolutely yes to a country’ history. Idk man… you say that… but there’s just so many tea shops to cover, and so much food to try… ๐Ÿ˜› ๐Ÿ˜› it’s ok, I can do a whole day of food with someone else hehehe maybe @bammsie. Definitely bammy actually haha. And you can just join for the bits you want to.

            I managed fine with my broken Korean and pointing at things on the menu, but the opportunities would be more if I had someone that spoke it.
            Haha yes! Sounds like a plan.

            Hey, not a problem, glad they were helpful/interesting in someway!! ^-^
            (You ever notice how parents will always ask their kids, especially those living away from home, if they’re eating well? And always bring them side dishes? Food is a love language hah. )

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      Yes, I enjoyed Sicโ€™s photos and travel tips more than the last episodes of the show (thank you, Sic, for the photos and the tag <3). Ironically, when the show was still ongoing, I craved every single post about it. I lurked in dramabeans to see if the number of comments on the RSC hangout thread had increased and to wait for Sicโ€™s tag 😅. I read โ€œWhat weโ€™re watchingโ€ and open threads to see if anyone was talking about it. But now, when the show is talked about all over the internet, I donโ€™t care anymore 😂. Although I did enjoy the show until I quit, I donโ€™t get the hype about it. Do Junho and Se-young take all the credit?

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        I don’t know if the last qs is meant to be rhetorical but I’ll answer it anyways lol. I think Junho’s rising popularity at the time of the release of the show did help. Though, it still didn’t start off with really high ratings. It’s the return of the tsundere, the push and pull between the main leads and the wait for the couple to be together that never gets old. All these tropes are cliched but always attract audiences. Tbh the last point is also why I kept watching till the end.

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        Lol I’m similar Healer. I was enjoying it at first, and relished in the conversations initiated on here about it… but now it’s over, and I dropped it, I don’t care. In fact I care even less since it seems to me it is overhyped and overrated for what it is.

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          @wapz: Thatโ€™s a genuine question, not rhetorical 😅. I think the RSC production team promoted the drama very well. Junho talked about his diet on several shows, he appeared on MBC radio star and on other radio shows with Se-young twiceโ€ฆ But again, other production teams do that all the time too. So ultimately itโ€™s as you said, it was the cliches and the chemistry shown in the drama and behind the scenes between the leads that attracted audiences.
          @ Sic: Exactly. Because it is overhyped and overrated, it made me care less ๐Ÿ™‚

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    Thank you for sharing your adventure in Korea, Sic! I look forward to having my turn to go there with a very, very, very long list of historical places to visit, LOL. I love eating at my Korean friends’ homes. They are always so generous with food, and I get to take home kimchi and rice cakes every time.
    Thanks to you, I’ll be making galbi (cheater’s version) for dinner. Yummmm!

    I haven’t seen the last few episodes of RED SLEEVE yet, and it’s becoming a bad habit for me. I don’t think I’ve ever finished a sageuk this year, but I have gone back and rewatched some from old favorites like Conspiracy in the Court, Hwang Jin-Yi, Shin Don, Chuno and Queen Insoo, etc. I think I connect more with the older writers than we have now. They were well versed in their craft, and I find their interpretations fascinating and eye-opening.

    Anyway, I love this kind of wall post. I know I’ll come back and reread it.

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      I went to quite a few on this trip anyway, but I think I would go to even more if I ever get back haha.
      Ah I have a Korean couple I know from church actually that has invited me round for dinner. I need to get back to them about that! I want Kimchi jigae! haha

      I finished 3 somehow, but… well… you know how they all were haha.
      I want to watch a good sageuk now, I need to CLEANSE my brain with one!

      x take you time/

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    Iโ€™d love to be your โ€œfriendโ€ eating Korean bbq the next time you go! It sounds lovely! And I can just tag along. Iโ€™m a much better tag-alonger than planner. Ask my hubby. 😆

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    So fun! Ahaha we just missed each other, I went home in early spring of 2019. ๐Ÿ™‚

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